I’m working on this building with my wfp… I’ve used wfp for residential and smaller commercial buildings, but nothing this big before, and nothing like these particular windows. I’m not happy with the results I’m getting. This is a first clean on the building that’s been up for about a year, in dusty Texas. The windows and deep frames are coated with dirt, and it’s accumulated in all the corners. The aluminum frames have a surprising amount of oxidation going on, so when scrubbed the aluminum oxide goes into solution, then dries in lines of spots on the windows below while I’m allowing for drip time. It’s taking major scrubbing on the glass, going over it 4-5 times, to remove that and all the dirt. On top of that, the rubber seals have some kind of grease/oil on them, so when scrubbed I’m getting that on my brush and it’s leaving oily streaks. I am doing a good rinse, but seem to not be removing enough dirt/grime even with excessive agitation. I’m spending a lot of time, and I still don’t like the results. I’m thinking maybe a boars hair brush would help for starters, and open to any other suggestions. Thanks.
Allen
No close up pics, but I’ll be back out working on this on Tuesday. I’ll try to get one. I’m also going to try a squeegee instead of wfp on lower windows. I’m pretty sure I’ll get a better result on the glass, but it won’t clean the frames so I can use just wfp next time. And it’s not an option for the higher windows.
If I run my finger along those frames, even the underside, it’s coated with a combination of white chalky oxidation and black Texas dirt. Run my finger along the rubber seals and it’s greasy black dirt. Some seals are more greasy than others. After scrubbing seals and leaving to drip, there’s about an inch of oily run-down below the top seals. The oily look remains after rinse. I did start adding ecover to my pure water to about 6-8 ppm, but afraid to add any more than that. The ecover did help some with the grease streaks, but not the general dirt and oxidation run-down.
You are going to rinse AFTER you soap the windows. You never want to leave soapy water on glass. So your TDS is only important on the rinse portion.
Having dealt with terrible oxidization before, it just requires ALOT of rinsing. Problem is, it gets in your bristles and you have to get that milky crap out of the bristles BEFORE you can rinse effectively. I’ve also had success using bronze wool pads to get rid of the oily crap, but again, this is ALOT of elbow grease.
I suspect you’ll have no problems with the oily issue after this clean, if you get it all off, but the frames may or may not continue to be a PITA. I’m 50/50 when you clean the oxidization off, that the problem is gone. Sometimes it’s a bear to deal with EVERY time I clean the glass.
Actually, I have a gardiner backpack in addition to my tank/pump, and a second wfp. Could use the backpack for soapy water. How much soap and what kind? I have unger easy-glide, ecover, and Dawn.
im newbie too window cleaning but i purchased a 10year old wfp route someone else got the resi and light commercial
just did a 5 story hotel was brutal lots of obstructions, trees, shrubs and patio walls. the back side was worst front was nice. was very tight angle in back with obstacles.
have several more wfp jobs this week plus hand work im still learning technique
i have a triple crown silver wfp and IPC Eagle RO/DI 5 stage.
it took me 8hrs to clean all with wfp. im still very slow with squeegee. 5th floor was very hard once i was too fourth i was very thankful to be done with 5th.
i think i want a longer pole and are there more rigid CF than the triple silver?
