Fired up my new wfp setup for the first time yesterday evening. Really cool. I’m using 1/4" airline, and a Shurflo, 100 psi., 1.8 gpm open flow, 12 volt pump. I am going into and out of the pump w/ 3/8" tubing. Using the 200’ section of line I seem to have pretty good flow and pressure at the brush head.
The only thing that has me concerened right now is the pump. It is cycling on and off very quickly, like once a second when I have the ball valve at the end of the supply hose open. And the metal body of the pump is getting warm to the touch. Not hot, but fairly warm, I can hold my hand against it.
Shurflo sells an accumulator, its basically a pressure tank, but I need something yesterday. I found several small, in-line pressure tanks, 2-6 gals, at Home depot and Lowes. Problem is, I’m not exactly sure exactly how to set it up. I’m wondering if I need to put a check valve between the output side of the pump and the pressure tank. Etc.
I need something to keep the pump from cycling constantly. Any thoughts or suggestions on how to acheive this would be great. I have 5 residentials scheduled next week, it would be really helpful on 4 of them if I had this system up and running.
I am not using an extra pressure switch, the pump has a pressure switch built into it. The switch is preset at the factory to cut off at 100 psi. I’m not sure what the cut on pressure is, I’m guessing around 85 psi. Its the same pump that Shawn sells.
But, it’s not always necessary to have the pump on. I’ve found that I don’t need it on at about 90% of the places I do. Just reduce the flow of waste water out of your RO until you have flow coming out of the brush. You can’t shut off the waste water flow, but you can reduce it until it’s close to being shut off (but definitely still flowing).
On a side note, my battery has run out of power twice when I needed it. So, I bought this.
Now I use electric when it’s available and battery when it’s not. Best of both worlds.
Shurflo pumps are made to run continuously. If you use a recirculating loop & feed off with an adjustable T valve you will never have pressure switch problems. I’ve heard so many problems with flow control systems - this is cure to end all pump & flow problems. Infact this is no 1 on my to do list for the backpack.
Damn Karlos, that is slicker than owl ****, what a great idea! I don’t have it quite pictured in my head yet, but I get it. Thank you very much. Shawn, I am going from a holding tank to the pump. I am making my pure water at home. Thank you.
I just finished hooking up my RO/DI a few minutes ago. According to the dual TDS meter built into the system, the water is coming out of my RO at 001 TDS. Guess it will be a while before I have to replace the DI resin.
Put a T piece into your hose line and feed half the supply back into the tank, now fit a small tap into that tank feed to control how much water goes up the pole. We call it a by-pass, Flojets now come with an internal bypass to stop the cycling which will destro your pump.
I have not been to town to get hands on, with the bits and peices, so I’m still trying to picture this loop in my head. Also, finding a 3 way ball valve at the local hardware store might be problematic at best. I’m thinking I could use a regular garden hose Y splitter to take the place of a 3 way, they have a common port, where the water comes in, and a shut off valve for both sides of the Y.
I guess someone might have to draw me a picture. First, I see a T on the output side of the pump, with one side going to the pole and one side returning to my holding tank. Then, the tank return line gets split, one side continuing to the tank, the other side back to the pole, with me controlling how much water goes to either side. So at this point I have 2 lines headed for the pole, one line from the original T and one from the Y on the tank return line. I guess I would then tie both these lines back together to go to the pole, on the pole side of the 1st T?
I’m usually pretty good at this kind of stuff, but this is a little trickier than household plumbing. I also “feel” like this loop is going to somewaht reduce the actual pressure going to my pole, I don’t know. With the flow and pressure I have now, this “might” be an issue, I guess I will find out for sure, once I get it going.
You are “seeing” it almost right, put your thumb over the end of the hose that goes to the tank and the water then goes up the pole, replace your thumb with a small tap, you dont need a three way, only a controlled on or off/halfway. In practice you only need a small 4mm 1/4" flow pipe to relieve the pressure.
You guys are great. It works like a charm. The overflow adjustment is a little touchy but its no problem. I pretty much set it up like I described how I “saw” it:D
Hey Karl, could you post a photo of your bypass set-up so the more technically challenged amongst us (like me) can see what you’re talking about. Thanks.
Is it possible to use a Shurflo on-demand diaphragm pump without a buffer tank if you use the bypass method? I have a Wash-iT Pro and I love the portability, so I don’t want to have to lug a 50 gal tank around. I want to mount a pump and battery on my cart and connect it straight to the building faucet. I need to run 1 pole to 5 storeys or 2 poles to 2 storeys.
Some of my clients only have 35 psi faucet pressure and I’m getting about a 25 - 30% pressure drop across my RODI cart.
If anyone has a set-up similar to what I am trying to achieve some pics would be awesome. I am somewhat plumbing-challenged, so photos would be really helpful. Or just use really small words…
Managed to find this picture for you: Water in top left, water out feed to brush top right. See the T split in the hose? The valve going back to the water feed has a regulator that controls how much goes back to the brush feed or the source. Peter Fogwill used a lever but it can be done with a rotary as pictured.
what a great idea! I don’t have it quite pictured in my head yet, but I get it. Thank you very much. Shawn, I am going from a holding tank to the pump. I am making my pure water at home. Thank you.
First, I see a T on the output side of the pump, with one side going to the pole and one side returning to my holding tank. Then, the tank return line gets split, one side continuing to the tank, the other side back to the pole, with me controlling how much water goes to either side. So at this point I have 2 lines headed for the pole, one line from the original T and one from the Y on the tank return line. I guess I would then tie both these lines back together to go to the pole, on the pole side of the 1st T?
