What am I doing wrong? TDS readings

Ok so I am baffled at this point. I bought a xxx multipole with the DI tank a few months ago. I still cannot get an accurate reading. The TDS in my area ranges under the 50’s but I want to see 0 in my reading as expected. I’ve tried everything I know as how to take a reading. I’ve tested in glass, plastic and even running the meter directly under water flow. My readings never get to zero. I’ve even had a new TDS meter sent to me in case the original was bad. Same results I test my water before di and then after di and I get a lower reading but not zero. Please help.

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I just always fill the little cap on the tds meter to take the reading. However, you might let it flow for a minute or two before taking the reading.

Yeah. I want to see zero as well. I don’t want any of this “good enough”/ “10 will not spot” stuff.

  • [B]prove that point.[/B]

Sometimes I get 10-12 out of the inline, 5-6 out of the “Cap method” with the handheld, and zero with the meter at the jets.

Zero, baby… all the way around… that’s what I want to see.

Might be regenerated resin it doesn’t work as well

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Also if it’s the real small tank will probably exaust the resin about 50 gallons especially high-pressure water from the customers water bib. use a spray pump. For very low flow rinse. Tripled my resin life. My opinion. Any water above zero TDS won’t clean well and will spot. But I bet it’s regenerated resin. Totally useless

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I agree , I think you need a bigger di tank . Buy 1/2 a cube

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Yeah. And run it from a pump sprayer on low flow. This cut my resin use from $925. To $275 in successive years I like light and easy to replace equipment. My shurflow pro pack in in its 3rd year and is very reliable and light

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My shurflo pro pack runs at 1.2 gallons per min(gpm) on low. Gardiner has just put out version 3 pump sprayer that operates at .35 gpm. With. Extra windings on the motor for very extended low speed operation. I m gonna get one this winter. Bet this will cut my resin use in half again.
Also the lower the flow the rinse, The more accurate with less splashing And better work. Less correcting. It’s a win win
The customers water sometimes runs at. 10 gpm. Using 3x the resin at least. And get splashy spotty work to boot. It’s a lose lose

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The pump sprayers work very well on residential. Perhaps less well on commercial where hours of straight running and huge areas of plate glass is the norm. I don’t do this work, but for on/off residential windows. It’s the the best and most cost effective tool

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In addition to the possibilities already mentioned, there’s also a chance that your flow rate is messing you up. [MENTION=378]Perry Tait[/MENTION], correct me if I’m wrong, but I believe that the smaller the DI tank, the lower the flow rate they can handle and still filter adequately.

So I would suggest turning down the tap to just a very slow stream, run it through the tank for a minute, and then test your TDS coming out.

I have to agree with Alex’s ideas here.

I have a di that’s about 1/4 cubic foot. If I run it straight from the tap on certain jobs with high pressure I’ll get readings of 10-15 out of it with a starting tds of 130 ppm.

I then use it as a polisher for my ro membrane and I get 000 ppm. It’s because the ro has quite low pressure coming out and the water has more time in the di tank.

I have to add that the difference is not just because my tds is low coming out of my ro. I know this because I can use the same di without changing it for many weeks.

… I use an Aquatap and reduce the flow by turning halfway or so on. Seems like the same could
be done with a simple valve on the line too.

#1- there is no way anybody’s household tap is pushing 10 gpm. average in city water is 4-5 gpm. well water is all over the map. sorry, just felt i needed to clarify that.

#2- the guys who are talking about flow rate are spot on (no pun intended). that tiny DI vessel you have is basically useless for any serious work. 1/4 cubic foot chamber is such a small area that your flow rate has to be low low low to get the contact time you need for the resin to do it’s work before the source water exits the system.

Put a ball valve right in front if the input of the vessel to control the flow (time + resin = lower tds). That’s still a pretty small tank you’ve got there ( to original poster) but you won’t know its true performance until you change the resin yourself and put in virgin resin. Draw from the great suggested tips in this thread and you should see better results.


It is practically brand new. They would not sell me regenerate old resin would they?

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Why would they sell me a useless tank? I asked in the other forum on waterfed poles if I need any other ro or carbon filter and was told this tank should be sufficient. I’m not seeing any major spotting some here and there mainly on the bottom edge. I just need some real answers and a solution. Do I need to buy something else, an additional tank? I’m not into the backpack thing but thanks.

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I am wondering about the resin. Should it not have been virgin resin from my purchase? The flow rate makes sense. I usually turn the faucet on high for input and the out put I have very low as low as I can get it. I do let it run for a few minutes first too.

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I just think it might it might be a possibility for you know quickly exhausted resin
It’s a very very small tank I think it’s a 1/10 of a cubic foot of resin it’s bound to one out quickly
You got to get ProTools. It’s like trying to be a chef at a restaurant usually easy bake oven, With a light bulb
Get a one half cubic foot do DI tank with the fittings that’s your professional tool I prefer a pump sprayer also cause the low flow rate but I seem to be in the minority

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