I’ve just recently bought a Xero Pure water fed pole system and couldnt find answers on this forum to a few things. That said I’m used to the Unger Hyrdopower (basic one stage DI) but this is the first 3 stage system I’ve ever used so I’m as excited as I am cautious to keep my system running properly.
1.) I’ve seen people saying to flush the RO membrane before using the system, is this necessary and how often should I do it? I’d like to preserve resin thats why I opted for a multi stage system.
2.) Given good (60psi or so) standard tap pressure could I use four jets through my Xero Pure without a booster pump?
3.) How long can I expect my resin to last after going through an RO/DI membrane if my water is rougly 100-150 TDS, I’m curious to see how question number one actually affects the life of the DI resin
4.) Is the pressure good enough to get through 200ft of hose running through the system? If not whats reasonable, should I just plan on moving the tank around when I’m doing a house?
My company will be doing several jobs for HOAs soon and I want to be as efficient as possible and maximize my time and income.
I know there are lots of videos and what not from the WCR crew but these are the questions I’m still unsure about. Appreciate any input!
Run with RO only for 3 minutes daily before reconnecting the DI. Check the TDS as you do so and you will see the TDS drops rapidly during that time. This will reduce the work the DI resin needs to do and the resin will last longer.
1.) Flushing your RO before connecting it to the DI is a great idea, it will get all the high TDS water out of the RO and extend the life of your DI a bit.
2.) With 60psi, you may get away with running 4 jets on at 2nd story but not much beyond that without the aid of a booster pump.
3.) With an incoming TDS of 100ppm, operating in RO/DI mode, you can expect to produce around 12,000 gallons before you need to refill the 1/4 cube of DI in the refillable cartridge. At 150ppm you would be looking at producing roughly 8,500 gallons.
4.) Without a booster pump I wouldn’t try to run more than 150ppm to be honest. There is a good chance you won’t deliver water too high. Adding some 3/8" host to the system, directly from the system then down the the 1/4" yellow hose supplied with the unit would be ideal.
Thanks for the swift reply guys. I really appreciate the feedback and feel a lot more confident to tackle the busy season (with my Xero) this year, bring on spring!
Hey so i am using the xero pure, and i have a 100 psi home built pump, i followed one of the write ups on here. Im not getting great pressure. I have the pump after the system, should it be going before? Any ideas guys? Thank you.
Edit- also i wanna add its only a 1.4 GPM, but according to the write up that would work. I can wfp up to 2 stories im just worried about this 4 story apartment im bidding
@Pure_Water_Window_Cl is well qualified to answer this. He gets to 7 stories with tap pressure only.
A pump is to increase water pressure to the RO where tap pressure is low so goes before not after filtration. Placing a pump after is for pre-processed water from a tank.
I have had my WashIt (Xero) for two seasons and still haven’t replaced my resin yet. I thought at first I would spend a lot of money on resin but I was definitely surprised and wrong. As others said, you can flush your RO before hooking up to DI but probably not even necessary. The RO on my WashIt alone takes me from 130ppm to 3 or 4 so my resin is lasting FOREVER.
RO taking it to 3 or 4 is well beyond spot free as is, I just like to polish off the water anyways to 0ppm on that chance there is a pressure fluctuation that causes the membrane to not operate as well since RO works on a pressure system to filter.
200 feet of hose with RO + DI is probably about the limit, if not pushing it too far. You’d be surprised how far 150 feet gets you in each direction of a house.
I do have a pump system where I can fill up a buffer tank (35 gallons) at my house with pure water and go to a job without any hookups or setup. Runs on a Deep Cycle boat battery with a (I think) a 90 PSI transfer pump with a diaphragm on/off. The buffer tank with pump can handle more than 200ft of hosing.
Our incoming psi is 80 so we’ve never really needed any pump. However, results would definitely start to be effected as the psi goes down in intensity. Or, if you need to push through 100’s of feet of hose a pump would be good.
I would like to hear how that works, 7 stories without a pump even with 80PSI coming from building, which is rare, the spec it once it gets to your system and up to the brush Would likely not be enough flow to efficiently rinse windows.
I could imagine a few windows at 7 stories but not efficiently working at 7 stories.
We service multiple 7 story buildings each year with just an RO/DI, no pump, with 80 psi incoming water pressure, through multiple 100’s of feet of hose. Plenty of pressure and flow left to get from brush to glass. Not as much as when rinsing at ground level obviously but enough to operate.
Josh, I have seen those videos before somewhere, guess I didn’t realize those are yours, good videos.
What I realized was I am not used to working with one pole, all we do is two, lowering pressure at each. So I understand working 7 stories with single pole with no pump. My mistake.
