I haven’t cleaned hundreds of houses, but I’ve cleaned quite a few. And as I’ve cleaned I’ve begun to modify my approach to cleaning. I used to just wash the windows with the mop and squeegee, then detail. But often times that didn’t seem to get the windows clean enough. There were spots from bugs or whatever that get missed. The bottoms of the windows sometimes are a bit more difficult to clean, I guess because they haven’t been cleaned recently and the debris seems to accumulate towards the bottom.
So, … I started using steel wool which worked great. Sometimes I would scrape the windows if they were too dirty. Now I tend to just go up to a window with the intent of just using the steel wool because then I don’t end up having to do it again if it wasn’t clean enough. Usually on the insides, I’ve found that just a mop and squeegee seem to be sufficient.
So, what is your approach to cleaning?? Do you automatically scrape all windows? Or do you steel wool everything? A good strip washer, white scrub pads, something else?? I don’t want to waste time cleaning and re-cleaning so the steel wool is pretty good IMO (takes a bit more time though), but thought I’d ask the veterans what they like to do when they get up to a window. Thanks for the replies.
Even though I worked in the past for the much dreaded Redshirts, even they never used a waiver around here so I have no idea how to word it. I understand the FD problem, but I haven’t wrote up anything or mentioned it to my customers. Any help in that regard?? Even if I write up a waiver, how am I going to know if it’s legit and is gonna protect me??
I know I need to cover my ass, can’t be lucky every time. That’s one reason I was wondering everyones approach.
And CCU is …?? (sorry)
go to dan fields website, stopscratchedglass.com I believe, and he has some downloadable stuff there.
As far as your other question, what I do and have my guys do, is: we use a husky tool belt from home depot, so we use the bag for our rags, the smaller pocket for the blade, we use the tape measure holder in the back to put our white pads or steel wool, the boab hangs to the side. We use the t bar scrubber and scrub the window, clean it, and if there is bee do-do, or stuff like that, re wet and use the white pad. If there is paint overspray then re wet and scrape. Thats how I do it…but its also important not to leave a window until it is completely finished.
Salvatore’s approach works well, although I’m not familiar with white pads… are we talking those oxiclean pads or whatever they’re called?
Anyways, I’ve got a very keen eye to details so as I approach the window I scan it for what might be problem areas, meaning what I feel the strip washer may not remove. If there is quite a bit, I’ll always bust out my blade whether it be the 1" or 6" depending on how much there is to remove. But to be honest, I dont think most window cleaners utilize the more aggressive pad on the sides of most strip washers, they’re more effective and time saving than you think. We all know the bee do-do (I like that one, Salvatore… haha), and all other typical problem spots before we even start cleaning the window, so you normally know what you’re up against. I’ve recently picked up some steel wool to give it a try as I’ve never actually done so, but again… I’ve never really had issues using the tools I’ve always used.
Also I just want to note an obvious thing here, but its important… a well set-up tool belt will do wonders to time-saving. No cutting corners for this window cleaner…
We use bronze wool instead of steel wool because it doesn’t rust. We usually bronze wool every window on the inside of the house because on the inside, there is usually no need for a blade. We blade most of the outside windows. We do not blade any glass doors, sidelite or transom windows, or any atrium windows. A lot of atrium windows are annealed out here and will scratch the moment a blade touches it. So pretty much just the exterior of double hung windows get bladed. We have all of our clients sign a pre-existing conditions and fab debris waiver before service.
I’ve attached my waiver. You can use the wording if you like. I’d have an attorney in your area check it to make sure it covers you.
On the first clean we scrape the glass. (waiver in place of course).
When using the waiver do you ever get people say that they wont sign it? If they don’t sign do you just clean the glass the best you can using something such as a white scrub pad or steel wool instead of using a scraper or do you just decline the job?
It totally depends on HOW you present the waiver. For example, when you go to a persons house for a consultation, right when you give them the price and they accept, you say “Thanks Mrs. Smith, we will be out on Monday to clean your windows. I just need you to give me a quick signature here saying we will not be responsible for any preexisting conditions or scratches on your windows”. Then educate them on FD. They always sign. I started this year doing the waivers and when I presented it this way (right after they agree to the price), I have not had any turn it down.
I not only get the waiver signed, but also give them a handout which explains about FD. Customers seem to appreciate the information. As for residential, my routine is pretty much: waiver first always if a new account. Knock down any webs, dead bugs, loose crud etc., mop window, scrape or wool it, mop, squeegee, detail
I always start with a waiver of course, then I start on the inside of the house and brush the tracks and quickly vacuum them. Then I quickly scan the window for any obvious signs that I’ll need to scrape. I spray the window with GG4 from a hand held pump sprayer and then mop with one hand while with my other hand I use my finger tips tracing over the window feeling for any debris. If I don’t feel anything then I just squeegee clean and detail the edges with a blue lintless towel. If I feel something, I scrape. Depending on how much water drips on the sills, I’ll use a sea sponge or if its not too much I’ll just use a terry towel. My experience is, if one need scrapped, they all usually need it.
I used to scrape every window-every time and i believe that it is useless and raises the instance of damaging glass bigtime. Its just not necessary I feel. I do use a heck of alot of 0000 steel wool though to keep the quality up. Most of my jobs are pretty much the basic dirt with an occassional spot scrape here and there. There is alot of bad glass out there that will sneak up on you and scratch easily. I stopped scrapeing 15 years ago. If it needs scraped from overspray (too much to just spot scrape) I will blade the whole window. Save youself time and the liability and do it only when needed.
Another newbie question: would you use a pole and a cobweb brush to make a quick pass around the house first? or do you prefer to complete all of the above steps sequentially one window at a time?
This may be a personal preference thing, but I’m asking because in my residential cleaning business, we do things in a certain order for specific reasons. In the case of window cleaning, I’m wondering if it it may be more efficient/faster to “cobweb” all the windows first before putting the dust brush away and beginning the wetwork.
Conversely, if ladders are involved, then doing one window at a time may make more sense…Just thinking out loud here…
