That’s the reason why I decided to bought it, the specific issue I’m trying to fix on a customer window triggered this whole situation and got me thinking beyond this particular situation. I’m leaving the country shortly, but I believe it can make me good money before we sell, and add value to the company itself adding another source of income, which well marketed can bring big money to a motivated person.
Summertime is kind of slow around here, and the 100+ degrees outside are not even funny, but I don’t mind calling customers when we have the day open and tell them about our “New” service, working inside with the AC on … piece of cake
Well, glad to inform that problem has been solved using the Mr Hard Water kit, and amazingly it took 15mins to finish the 3 half windows with the haze from safe restore.
Homeowner wasn’t there and the blinds were closed, so he called me when he got home and said everything looks great, but we’re gonna wait until tomorrow morning to see how it looks early in the morning when the sun hits the windows directly.
I just started a business. I am wondering about CC 550 as well. It seems to me that people are very polar in their opinions. Yet, I have seen many more complaints than I have seen success stories with CC 550. I ordered some on a whim thinking that it would do the job. Does anyone have any other ideas about how to remove hard water and oxidation spots from glass without risking your reputation? I can’t seem to get a clear explanation about any other alternatives to CC 550. Also, if the glass has tin (don’t all of them have it?) how do you restore it?
CC 550 is just one of the strong acids. There are many acids. I use a strong one that is a local bought product, but likely just as strong as CC 550. You hear bad stories because that’s what people are interested in discussing. Use the product correctly and you won’t have a problem (as it is MADE for hard water removal). Correct use is:
Following directions on the package
Keeping a materials safety data sheet in your truck
Keeping it wet
Removing it at the right time
wetting the surrounding area around the window with water so that it won’t harm plants or anything if it drips
Making sure it doesn’t drip:)
Keeping a tiny space between the frame and the applied chemical (don’t drench the frames, be careful of the IG seals).
Just be reasonable. You’ll get more calm and comfortable using acids the more you apply them.
As for tin side damage, don’t worry about it so much. It’s almost like winning the lottery. It will likely not happen. If you are nervous about it, get a tin side detector. Some guys on here use it every cc 550 job, most don’t. Most don’t even know what tin side is so you are ahead of the game.
That being said, many of use try other methods before using any strong acid. Hard rubbing with applicator, bronze wool, steel wool, white pad, scraper. Get most of the deposits off with that, then do the acid. Some see cc 550 as the last result. They will use something like one restore before it.
Oh and proper, gloves, mask and air flow. Obviously almost all hard water is outside.
Also, u may wanna do and review one at a time to make sure everything is fine.
I know it seems like a lot of caution, but acid works well. And it’s a cheaper start than glass renu.
Make sure to tell your customers there are no guarantees of perfect results, but it will likely look much better. Some will have you do one as an example. Charge high and always seal. Don’t be too exact on saying how long the seal will last. I tell them usually 2-4 months. They need to move sprinklers.
