Ok I need some serious pointers from you seasoned WFP pros!
I just did a 12,000 square foot estate and another two homes on the estate as well. I cleaned it with the water fed pole on the out side yesterday. I came back today to do the inside and every window on the outside had some serious spotting on the top 3 inches. Some windows had spotting on the entire window. Some of the windows had it around all the edges.
These windows were broken up into 2X2 panes with multiple panes across and high. Each pane had 1-2 inch rubber seals or whatever kind of material they use to make seals. So basically huge french pane windows.
I checked the TDS throughout the day and it kept reading 000ppm so I am sure it was not the DI resin. I was using just a DI tank.
Any help here in how to solve the spotting. Do you think it was dirt etc seeping out from underneath the seals or what?
I have also been concerned that maybe my water flow is not fast enough coming out and that maybe its because I used pole hose as my DI line which is not very wide.
Doug it could be TOO MUCH water pressure as well as a number of things. Too much pressure can cause the water to hit the top of the frame, splash, or cause the water stream to “bounce off” the glass instead of rinsing down. All these things will cause dirty water to drip down the window. Also with frenchies rinsing is king. Lots and lots of rinsing. WFP work takes a little practice like anything else to get right. A job like the one you describes is probably not the best for learning to use a WFP. I’d be more than happy to help you out since we live in the same neck of the woods. Call me anytime. My number is on my sweet website that Curt Kempton built for me (shameless plug.) www.abwindowcleaners.com
I’m thinking it was not the water pressure in fact maybe the lack of water pressure. I have a water pressure regulator on the tank for 45-50 PSI. The water coming out of the brush was like a gentle water fountain, the water was not sheeting down the glass like I have seen on some of the videos on WCR. Maybe I need to take a video and post it to see if you all think its coming out fast enough.
I mean I only used a half cubic tank on that estate and it still read 000ppm even though I used it for about 7 hours on and off. On my hogs hair brush the water was only squirting out one side and the other side it was trickling out. So I had to switch back to the synthetic brush.
Get a measuring jug and time 60 seconds of flow,… see how full the jug is. If you’re 1 1/2 litres or above, then flow rate is not the problem.
My guess is that your problem was caused by dirt seeping out from under the seals,… its a real pain in the butt starting out, and many first time clean will have this problem.
In the UK the standard approach to a first clean is to go over the job twice. The first tim give the frames & seals a real good scrub & rinse (Clean the glass too),. the 2nd time clean just the glass.
Another thing to consider is that on french windows there will be water dripping from the top panes onto the panes below for a few minutes, so perhaps do the top section of 10 windows then go back to the start and do the next section down on the 10 windows,… give each level a chance to stop dripping before you clean the glass below it.
The very first time I used my WFP setup I had similiar problems. It basically boiled down to not rinsing thoroughly enough.
To be safe on first time cleans I’ll wash/rinse everything, frames and glass, and do it again. Sometimes first time cleans have to be done traditional. Although on small cut ups, I’ll almost never go traditional for a first time. I’ll just wash/rinse twice. It may take close to as long as moving a ladder around to every window, but at least you don’t have to move a ladder around.
I’ll always spend extra time scrubbing and rinsing the very tops of every window regardless of the type of window.
Also, it sounds like you need more pressure. the more water coming out of the brush will let you be able to rinse alot better in less time.
Do you live in an area that you may need the extra step of Reverse Osmosis?
Hey Mike,
What happened?? You were supposed to call me to meet you there. Anyhow, all these posts are SPOT on (get it…spot…) anyhow, if the water does not have enough pressure that it dont get to the sides of the brush, the dirt from the frames will just collect on the brush and you will be just moving the dirt around. RINSE-RINSE-RINSE-
Mike, everyone can tell you that when they first got the system EVERYONE go’s thru this trip!! You will figure it out.
My next wfp job is on the 9th and 10th in Otay if you want to come and watch how big CASH ka-ching is made come on down. Call me…
Oops. Sorry Mike I just realized I called you Doug. I get all us San Diego guys mixed up sometimes. I guess it comes with age. Anyways, don’t hesitate to call and ask for help. I did when I first got into it and it saved me a lot of headaches down the road. The offer still stands.
French wooden panes - not the best job to be a beginner on - I still avoid wfping these. If the paint is flaky, there’s even more trouble in store. All the advise is “spot on.” I’d consider having someone show you the ropes (I saw it had been offered) before your morale dies & you give up.
Another thing to consider is how you rinse. Some guys keep the brush on the glass when rinsing, but on work that isn’t too high to make it impractical, lifting the brush off the glass and rinsing will help to ensure that nothing stuck in the bristles contaminates the glass before it dries.
Some glass will sheet, some beads,… its something to do with the manufacturing process,… both types clean up well with WFP regardless.
There is also a way of leaving the brush on the glass & rinsing at height without the brush contaminating the window. Just twist the pole & one side of the brush lifts off the window. Then it’s just technique & work your way down. I see so many people straining to rinse with thru-brush sprays pulling off the glass that catches the dirty frames & ruining the previous brush work.
The brush that was having issues the hogs hair is brand new first time used so I am surprised that it might be clogged I’ll try the paper clip and see if that helps.
I’ll also have to try and test the flow rate and get back to you on that one.
I think its a pencil jet but I am not sure, AKA “Beginner.”
As for the twisting of the pole for rinsing at higher jobs that makes sense as long as it doesn’t damage the glass.
thorSG1 I’ll give you a call, I want to come see it done.
Damian Casillas I’ll give you a call too as I can use all the help I can get.
As far as getting Discouraged, no way! I spent too much money to get discouraged. I’ll make this stuff work some how, but hopefully all of your help will solve the problems.
I guess the only thing about cleaning the top pane and going all around the building and then coming back to do the next row again and again does not seem like that would save me time. I can clean the windows faster by hand.
Another problem at this job is almost every set of windows had a set of doors with them and the water was getting in through the top and bottom so that when you opened the windows or doors it would run down the glass. SO water from the first day was still there the second. If my water flow was weak then I cant even imagine how much water would be in there if the water pressure was higher.
That’s the spirit Mike
I think if you were left on your own it would take you 3 months to get it right. With some help, you can get it down to a couple of weeks. It took me that long initially with all the different kinds of glass, frames & problems, but then there was no real help or experienced users to talk to.
For glass that water beads on (hydrophobic glass) fan jets are generally used. They will spray the pure water in a “mist”, and it will help rinse the glass better then the pencil jets, which just squirt the water out in straight streams. Fan jets are about 10 dollars and easy to switch out. This may be part of your problem, but it’s probably not the only problem. Some hands on help will go a long way, you’ll be cleaning with the WFP with awesome results in no time.
Resin beads are tiny and can clog jets easily. Check to see that there is a screen filter on your tanks.
One of the biggest struggles I had when I first started using a WFP was learning when it will work and when it won’t. Unfortunately it doesn’t work for every situation.
Also your approach is going to be different when using a WFP than traditional methods. It is hard to get used to, especially if you’ve been using squeegees for many years. Going across the top row, then coming back is going to be faster than traditional methods. It’s hard to believe, but in most cases it’s true. It’s a different way of thinking when using a WFP. It took me a while to get used to it too.
Definitely take those guys up on their offer to show you the ropes! Good luck!
If you do the top row first on the entire building you’re going to save time by not having to take the pole down every little bit. Do everything you can with the length of pole you’re using, take a section off or collapse it, and do everything at that height. If you just did one side at a time, like you would with a ladder, you’d have a lot of tear down and set up time involved.
I can see what you guys are saying and agree but does that rule also apply for lets say a average residential home? It would seem if each window has only two panes of glass that you would do them both right away?
As far as the jets are concerned if the water beads up you say you need a fan jet, if its not beading up then what does it do, just sheet off the glass?
Also if you need to put the fan jets in how do you take out the jets and put the new ones in?
I only clean residential homes. When using a WFP I do one side of the house at a time. With all the flower beds, trees, fences, landscaping lights, patio furniture, etc. Your right Squeaky, it would take longer to go around the whole house doing the top, then coming back around doing the lower windows. At least that’s my opinion. Wrangling the hose can be a chore.
