I’ve only run across jobs with these twice, but they are a MAJOR PITA.
I’ve tried everything. Hammering only warps the frame. You can “crush” the spline groove, but that leaves dents in the frame. To my knowledge, there isn’t rubber spline wide enough to effectively hold the screen in place.
Seems that the only way to actually get the spline back in is to use a wrench to press a hex key into the groove, and even then its a crapshoot on whether or not the spline stays in.
I’ve been told by my glass supplier that Anderson screens are not designed to be repaired. The metal spline can not be taken out and then reused and it can not be replaced with a rubber one. From what I’ve been told, the only option is to replace the screen assembly. You can only get them from an Anderson distributor. Even the local screenmobile guy won’t repair them.
I replace the Anderson U channel spline with foam core spline. I think the size is .225, but I’m not positive about that. It’s also easy enough to order brand new screens from Anderson.
They make spline up to about a quater inch. If you need spline email me and ill give you my screen guys phone number. Hes got everything screen related. and will sell you what ever length you need if they have it in stock
I have put the Anderson metal spline back into the channel after replacing the screen material. The biggest thing is you need to be careful when you remove it or it will just coil up on you and then it’s much harder to get back in. When you get one corner started you need to get a putty under it and work the metal spline out slowly so it comes out straight not coiling up on itself, which happens when you pull it out like rubber splines. When you put it back in you want to get it as straight as possible so that you can get both ends in at the same time. Sometimes that wont work and you just need to to slowly work from one end to the other. Then with a scrap piece of wood you can slide it on the spline to get it into the channel tapping(the wood) with a hammer where neccesary. It is tedious but can be done. I have also replaced the metal spline with large rubber spline, don’t remember what size. I hope you can visualize what I mean.
I’ve done exactly the same thing on two occasions when I’ve met up with sliding doors that use the metal spline. Jay’s right when he says if you pull out the spline slowly and prevent it from coiling up and/or twisting, it can be used again.
Just my two cents here and this is in fact my first post here. I have a group of condo units all of which have these silly Anderson screens. I too have reused the spline and also replaced with rubber spline too. After slowly removing the metal I lightly tap it straight between two 2x4s this straightens it out pretty good and makes reusing fairly simple. I would like to know if anyone knows where to buy the side clips for Anderson screens. Boy those things have a tendency to disappear when they get older!
Glad to be here, what a wealth of info. After being in the industry for the last 13 years I am amazed how little I know!!!
Brian
Go to an Anderson dealer and ask them to order the clip for you. Or call Anderson customer service and ask for their repair parts phone number. Speak to someone in the parts department and they should be able to get them for you.
Just redid one. Used standard .230 spline from Ace. Worked just like any other screen. This one was from a casement with side pins. Had to do it in two sections leaving a small gap where the pins come through. On the metal spline there is a indent to go around the pins.
I just did 16 of these. If you are careful you can stra7ghten them with your hands. I found that by making them straight as possible and then bending the ends down slightly they stay in. Pressin channel with fingers and then use a piece of wood and a hammer to seat it. Takes a bit longer than normal but isnt really that hard.
[MENTION=2033]cudog[/MENTION] If you are careful prying out the metal splines, they will just curl up but will be perfectly reusable. Just use aluminum screen and debt it into the groove on one side. Have a helper (preferably your wife so there’s somebody to yell at and blame) hold the metal spline straight as you pound it into place with a hammer. Just make sure you start with the spline that goes all the way end to end. Once all the splines are in place, just cut off the excess with a utility knife. It took about 15 minutes to do a 32" x 64" window. And I’m an idiot.
What I found out " (post #77727, reply #6 of 6).
by bobo66 in reply to Anonymous [original] on Thu, 05/24/2007 - 21:09.
I found a local window screen shop. The guy there was great, he had the spline I needed, but instead of selling the spline to me, he grabbed an Andersen he was about re screen and gave me a lesson how to do them quickly and by reusing the aluminum strip.
I went home and knocked off about 20 screens in about 5 hours.
The key was to reinsert the aluminum strip and roughly seat it by whacking it down with a rubber mallet; then place a strip of wood on top of the aluminum strip and and tap the wood to firmly seat the aluminum strip.
Just bought a foreclosure that looks like it has the metal splines on the screens. Also needs the clips. Looks like the windows must be Anderson, by the conversation. Glad I checked on it first before I got started! Thanks everybody! IS there a way to tell if the old windows are Anderson?
I filed to change the 53/26 Anderson metal splined screen to an animal protected screen. Followed YouTube instructions one replacement and ended up with twisted metal splines and bent frames. A mess. Apparantly Anderson does not want owner to change screens but buy ($$$) new screens from them. I did. Buy2!
I found remove the metal splines carefully, replace screen (for me animal “Proof” screening), and get .23 rubber spline from Ace Hardware and with pressure wheel device, install new screen in the old fashioned way. Be carful to not bend or damage the frame.
I actually purchased 2 screen (Thus winning $$$ for Anderson) in the event I damage the frame and for standby in the future.
