Is that what culligan gave you to connect the two tanks? ok so here are some photos for you. The hose connecting the two tanks is flexible so it’ll be just fine if it touches the top of your van. on both ends are garden hose connections. The one side goes to my temp hose reel and the other side you just plug into the home owners water supply (I’ve never had an issue with pressure, if anything to much) The first tank is a carbon tank and the second tank is my DI tank. Then I use a quick disconnect with a shut off at the end of the garden hose and used a combination of stuff to neck it down from 3/4 inch to 1/4 inch. If you have any questions on how to set this up feel free to call me. I’ll PM you my number.
I thought about working with Culligan when I first started out with Pure Water… I didn’t know much and whenever I talked with the Purewater/DI tank guys I felt very belittled. They never earned my business.
No it’s a shur flow 100 psi pump. From WCR. I hope I’m saying that right. I got it on clearance last year.
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200 gallon tank an overkill unless you have 7+ hour accounts is ok.
I usually have it filled over night, but will refill, as I’m doing big jobs. I have 100’ Goodyear 3/8 hose under the orange but is real heavy. I have 200’ more of the flexible air hose with hot weather in Florida stays flexible year round.
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Looks like your liking the liquidator
Nice set up!!!
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It’s funny, every time I use it I go over the entire pane of glass and bam no detailing. Is a good feeling, I just have to quit the idea to look over my work for spots. Old habits I guess. I think every one should have one 14" or 16" two things come close to this babies a well modified squeegee or wfp, jmo.
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[MENTION=38146]aviloria[/MENTION]
I can’t think of a single reason that laying a mixed bed tank in its side would cause the resin to tap out quicker. Did you get any technical reasoning behind that suggestion? We lay our DI cart on it side all the time and experience no ill affects.
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Its probably to do with the resin drying out, if you lay the tank down and don’t plug up the inlets.
[MENTION=7230]c_wininger[/MENTION] wcr told me it had to do with mixing spent resin at top with cleaner resin on bottom make you need to change resin sooner
^i guess I can see that. I have a hard time believing it’s a significant impact on your resin tho. It would be interesting to do a side by side test and see what the real effect is.
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I think you might be right plus the bottles need to be drained before picking them up to save your back
[QUOTE=Eastwood;[/QUOTE]
Oh man.
Those green quick connects, with the On/Off are the WORST!!!
I don’t hate much, but I hate THEM.
Ace Hardware, right?
No reflection on you, I have some.
But yes. I really don’t care for them, much.
(read: I hate them)
The “laying sideways” thing has something to do with the water flow.
(changing it, that is)
Funny, I was on a chat with Perry/future of cleaning last night about this.
The resin settles tighter from (water) pressure, not gravity.
So my take on it is, leaning on its side should not F-things up.
As the pressure will remain the same.
BUT, the question is, does the pressurized resin hold the contaminants in place?
And a “hard drop” scatter/release them?
My DI have always been in a 4 stage, so it was never even a discussion.
BUT the reason for buying the 4 stage was because I worried about using a DI and trying to keep it upright under our caps.
(which I was told from the get go)
I was told cartridges were different than tanks, and they were made to lie horizontal.
Long story, short, I need the DI tank for the job I’m on, but this has been the first “long term experience” with one.
- and damn, they go fast!
Neither bottle is labeled.
How convenient.
i was pretty confused when i started looking at wfp…then i bought reach it mini with wash it pro. simple, effective our water here is 250-300 my output is 0 bought last spring same resin although it was my first year so as busy as most.
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^this is the route I would go if I was new. Heck, this is the route I go and I’ve been in the game a long time.
Wash-it pro is Probably he best designed piece of equipment I own. It’s been worth every penny and I’ll buy a second one soon.
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^ I don’t think pressure has anything to do with contaminate collection. It’s all based on ionic attraction.
And I guess I should clarify- our di only system is the cartridge type, not a tank. So that may be significant. I still don’t get how storing and transporting a tank style chamber can have that much effect on resin. You should definitely only USE a tank style in upright position, but for transport I wouldn’t think it’s a big deal to lay them down.
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I freely admit ignorance to the tank usage.
My experience is cartridge style, only.
So I’m kind of starting over, learning about this DI tank.
I did do my first ‘self service’ resin change the other day.
(scared to death doing it)
“baby steps”
So I love that we are talking about this now, as I’m about to start looking to buy a DI tank/set up. I’ve been using the Culligan tanks and have been very happy with them, but I’m wanting something that if I’m on a job and my TDS starts to climb I can switch out the resin or what ever I need to do and keep working. I’ve just signed on a 3rd large commercial complex 4-5day job and I’d hate to have to loose a day due to the tank running out. I’ve seen some guy have a horizontal tank hanging from their ladder racks, I think that would be a great idea to free up bed space in the truck. If I’m buying a tank what do you guys think is the best tank/cart setup for pure water?
^ two big blue 4"x 20" housings with refillable media cartridges. Link them together, maybe put a pre-filter 10" housing before them so you can add in a carbon sediment filter. Then just have a couple of extra cartridges already filled with resin. When you tap out, just drop the new cartridges in
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