I think that setup you got from culligan is way way way too much stuff to hook up. take all that stuff back right now, except the DI tank. this is all a lot simpler than you probably realize. do you have water restrictions in your area? why not just hook up at the jobs and make your water on demand? skip the pump and the tank.
i would start with DI only like some of the other guys said. it’s plug and play, simple and idiot proof. if you want to roll with a 1 cube or 1.5 cube rental tank, just strap it to a dolly from harbor freight. then you can load it on it’s side to fit in any van or truck, and pull it out and stand it vertical when it’s time to used it.
skip the RO for now. spend the next few months learning how to actually do a job with WFP and get comfy with the work itself. then, after you have a handle on your preferred workflow, decide how you want to build your long term system.
and for hose, just go to home depot and buy 300’ of the nicest 1/4" poly air hose they sell. cheap, tough, easy to find anywhere. cut the fittings off the end and use poly or brass barbs from the plumbing section to mate them up. you’ll need a wfp quick connect to garden hose adapter to hook the output from your DI tank into your wfp output hose, WCR has them. then just add a foot of WFP hose to both ends of the 1/4" hose by heating it up so it can fit over a 1/4" barb. that way you adapt your 1/4" air hose to fit 3/16" wfp hose push fittings going into your brush.
[MENTION=39052]Hard2BeMe[/MENTION] that is exactly what I was trying to do here. I bought a 12V Marine Pump 300 GPH to pump the water from the tank to the pole. My pole came with a quick release connect with on/off switch.
So I can use regular hose from the van to the pole? I don’t need fancy orange tubing like my Ionic Grafter has?
Wow u really don’t need that big of a pump for wfp work. I have a 100 psi pump on my tank and I have a pump controller connected to my pump and I kick that pump way down with the controller.
See the problem can be if u have to much pressure u get splash back on the window and u will spot. U need to have just a lite steady flow of water coming out of your brush. So the water just sheets off the window.
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Thank you. Finally someone that just lays it out in simple terms. I have a high TDS average so I think I will just keep the RO stuff because I can use it in my house.
Though I do believe I would be better off with smaller DI Tanks, and I am not sure why they gave me two.
All last year and up until a week ago I just used a single DI tank.
Water source in one side, pole hose out the other side and right to work I went once I checked the water on my tds meter.
I bought one refill last summer, and will be ordering another resin refill this weekend.
WFP is so easy, however too many people think wayyy too much into all the other filters and accessories and nonsense that complicates the set up.
I’ve said it before and I stand by it still, I spent less than $700 initially on a 30’ pole w/brush, 50’ hose, DI tank, and some garden hose for the water supply. After a month I upgraded my brushes, added an aqua-tap, longer pole hose, added nice quick connects.
I’ve still spent less than $1500 in two years on my wfp investment. It has made far more than what I’ve put into it and has saved hours upon hours on my work.
Keep it simple.
Mike Radzik
Pro Window Cleaning
Central Massachusetts
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Do you need a pump with a DI tank? Or, will the pressure from the garden hose get up to a 3rd. floor window?
Wish someone would print out a booklet on various setups…hint, hint! The one book I bought left out too much info.
And, do you guys use an inline meter after your DI tank? Or, do you use hand held?
Thank you.
[MENTION=39865]Louie the Window Guy[/MENTION] your system is to much for what you will be doing
The might have given you two DI tanks because the resin in side of each are single charged resin one bottle is positive the other is negative. If that is the case you can lay tanks down when not in use. If they are both mixed bed resin tanks keep one mixed bed resin tank and on ro have water flow through ro first than DI use hose reel for water hose that you will connect to customers house use the 3/16 hose on another reel to connect directly to tank. You could use water hose to go from tank to Yellow tube that came with your pole but that will make your pole feel heavy and is harder to move around with.
*if you have mixed bed resin you can never lay it down once you have put water through it.
Louie,
So don’t lay those tanks on their side, It’ll pour water every where and from what I’ve been told it’ll get air in the tank and disrupt the resin bed. As for why they gave you two, My guess is one is a charcoal tank to remove organics and the second tank is DI this is what I run from culligan and it makes the DI last for ever. These tanks are a pain to load and unload, but I have them strapped onto a moving dolly/hand truck and they cart around just find but I tend to leave them mounted in my truck. Also for Hose I would recommend the goodyear hose It does get a bit heavy to drag around but they thinner hoses will end up getting holes from dragging through stuff. I’ll post a picture later, I build a shut off quick disconnect to connect the hose to the WFP hose. It’s all stuff I bought at HD for under $15. Works like a champ. And for your tank, return that tank and either get a tank from a Agriculture supply or just find a clean used 55 gallon barrel, They are cheap and work like a dream. But really just for starting out all you should really need is a DI tank, pole and hose, I would also recommend buying an IPC speed eagle brush to replace the one that comes stock it makes a huge difference. If you have any questions about the set up feel free to ask. I’ll send photos later.
Totally agree with the thought that the cheapest and easiest way to get in is to run a di tank with a pole.
But if u want a vehicle setup. With tanks and etc. then there are a lot of little things u have to invest in. It’s almost necessary to have a pump controller off your pump and then a deep cycle battery to run the setup. And weather you are going to hard wire it to recharge off your vehicle or recharge it when needed at home. Then your hoses and connections. There’s so many things to make it work.
It might be best to get your feet wet with just a simple setup and then figure out what it is exactly u want in your vehicle setup.
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Here is just a few pics of how mine is setup. Hope u can understand. I bought dishwasher setup kit for those metal hoses from pump to hose. And from pump to tank. Wiring is pretty simple I just followed the instructions I got with pump controller. And everything worked great.
These are just if u are still interested in setting something like this up.
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You can lay those tanks on their side, just get caps for the input and output. No leaks.
And the poly air hose I suggested will stand up to years of abuse. If you do spring a leak, just cut out that bit and throw a barb in to splice the hose back together. Costs $1.
Don’t bother with an inline tds meter, just use handheld.
DI tanks can handle all the volume you can throw at them and you don’t lose pressure- you can work at 65’ plus off tap pressure with no pump and plenty of volume.
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So I was just thinking about your van. In the back of your van there should be a false bottom where your spare is store under? If you were to pull out your spare, you should have enough room to fit those tanks standing up in there, if you then take a hose reel and mount it next to your tanks in the back then all you would have to do is pull into the job site open your back hatch run a hose to the customers water supply, pull your WFP out and start working. No moving tanks to set up at the customers location.
When picking up equipment in my van. I specifically asked if I could lay the tanks on their side. They said, “only in transport”. So deductive reasoning tells me…
Great minds think a like. This was my 1 am concept, but my son is 6’2" and won’t fit in the front seat like this. So I am thinking in the rear. [MENTION=37274]Eastwood[/MENTION] I forgot to mention I have a stow and go seating van. I am going to pull the seats out for storage space and for my “Stealth Camper Conversion Kit” I am fabricating for the same van.
