Screen repair tutorial from Mark The Window Cleaner

Hi folks,
For those of you thinking about getting into screen repair for your clients, here’s a quick tutorial of re-screening.


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I have one too :slight_smile:

[video=youtube_share;shsQV_zutc4]Screen Repair in New Jersey by Triple C Window Cleaning, Montclair NJ - How To repair window screens - YouTube

Hey, thanks for sharing as well Chris!

Do you find that splining the opposite ends first gives you a better result? less bowing or sagging? I’m fairly new to the screening world but I’ve always done it by just following the screen around and am curious if there are advantages to your way. I’m going to try it tomorrow, but I’d like to get your opinion on it.


[MENTION=67]Beautiful View[/MENTION]
Mark this is the best video I have seen by far for the screen repair. I love your videos, very informative.
Thank you for sharing with us.

I’m glad you found this video helpful Paul. :slight_smile:

[MENTION=37274]Eastwood[/MENTION] I find doing opposite ends first makes it easier to keep the screen taut. It may be personal preference though.

I like to do your method Chris on sliding Patio doosr. I’ll do one short side first, (top or bottom of door) and then go to the opposite end do that side and then carry along around the long length. (like doing an L shape) The go over and do the other long side.

I can’t remember where you mentioned it but you had said you will sometimes do screen doors in place. I did two screen doors today, did them in place, used pieces of spline to hold the screen material in place, Splined the top the two sides and finished with the bottom. I have to say it worked amazingly! I was in and out in 45 min with $90 in my pocket. I think I normally spend more time just getting the slider out of the frame than it took me to re-screen the doors. I just want to say thanks those two tips of yours made my day go super smooth and gave me time to knock on some doors.


yes, sometimes you get doors that are very hard to get out of the frame due to the house settling and door opening sagging. Doing it in place is sometimes the only way.

This is my next add-on…

Any list of must have tools? I wanna carry a table and whatever I need to make new screens on the spot… Some clients have missing screens and I want to be able to make them a new screen and look like superman.

I might do a tutorial sometime on the tools for a basic set up.

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I would love to know what roller you guys are using. I have a cheap plastic one that I kinda hate.

I rescreened a door in place the other day. Couldnt get it out of the track. I thought I had done something special, you guys took my bragging rights away, lol

This is an awesome add on! I recently found a neighborhood that every house need almost every screen re-done. I sold a lady on 18 screen re-meshes yesterday. It makes for a nice bit of extra money. When I’m on the road, (for now) I have a piece of plywood in the bed of my truck that I pull out to hang over the tailgate and hang my rolls on a line across the bed. It makes for a pretty good temp. table.

I like to use a piece of pvc pipe that goes accross the bed rails. The upright part of the ladder rack stops it from rolling off the truck. I’ve been using one of those fold up 6’ tables but half the screens I work on dont fit on it properly. Love your plywood idea. What does everyone else use for a table?

I still get some really big ones that are awkward to work and I only do screen doors up right In place. That’s my favorite thing ever. $45 in 10 min.

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Thanks for the videos awesome stuff

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This is what we have. Wasn’t cheap, but works great and the rollers are replaceable if they break.

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Yup, that’s the exact one I use.

Do any of you guys charge extra for the ‘pet proof’ screen?

I figure I do a 5-7 minute screen, and thought "how much harder can it be?"
Well. I found out - I had to do a door in place… a GOOD 25 minutes wrestling around with that bugger!

Oops. Lesson, learned. :o

Incidentally, my favorite tool is the one (or similar) that Josh posted.
Metal rollers with a nice, solid wood handle. I think it was about $30 bucks.