Unger nLite Hydro Power DI

Does anyone use this?
If so, could you tell me how high I can go with it?
And does it come with all the fitting I would need to start with it out of the box?

I’m looking to get the 2 tank set-up.

I’ve been using the stage 1 for 6 months and I’m shopping for either another stage 1 or a stage 2.

Can be used right out of the box. Barely affects the flow of water so the sky is the limit.

So no need for a pump at all? My highest wfp job is 6 stories. And I know it depends on TDS but what kind of use do you get out of a bag?

You’re right, it does all depend on tds. I start with 90-130 ppm in my service area. I bring that down with an ro membrane to about 3-8 ppm. In this case the 9.5 pounds of di resin in a single stage will last extremely long.

If I ran it straight through the di I’d probably be changing it every week or two. I highly recommend running an RO membrane first unless you’re 50 ppm or lower.

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What is your psi out of the tap? Mine is 80 psi. That’s high though. I’m sure you will not need a pump with just 1 or 2 stages of the Hydropower di unless it’s really low.

De-mineralising water is pretty basic…

As a rule of thumb, your water needs 30 seconds contact time with the resin - as long as you are getting TDS 000 at your flow rate on the ground, you can be guaranteed you can get TDS 000 with your flow rate at height.

Each storey takes 5PSI to offset the effect of gravity. All DI systems, in any form, take very little pressure from your initial available pressure.

Increasing the volume of DI, or reducing the flow rate through the DI will only make a difference if your TDS is rising above 000 at any given flow rate…

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If you are buying 1 cu ft resin from WCR (around $200), and maintaining a flow rate under 1/2 gpm, you can safely calculate your Hourly running cost of DI ONLY as follows :

TDS into DI / 100 = $running cost per hour DI ONLY.

At TDS 050, this equates to 50 cents per hour, or 1 cent per window…

Even at TDS 500, the running cost is $5 per hour, but if you are only working water fed window cleaning 4 hours per week, that’s $20 a week - it’s viable!

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IMO The hydropower is way overpriced. The resin is also too expensive. Even if it really does perform 30% better than a regular DI tank the cost is still way too high. I understand that changing the resin out is much easier than with a standard tank but if you really have to change your resin that often you should probably be using a multistage system like the wash-it Pro anyway. If you’re looking for a DI tank I would definitely go with the one cubic foot at WCR. It’s less than $350 and comes with a full cubic foot of virgin resin.

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I’m with you on the pricing. I purchased mine for $350 and the price has nearly doubled. Edit: (in Canada)

You do not need to use only the bags of resin. You can fill it with loose resin.

It’s at 54 psi

That’s what I was going to get, but it sits to high I work out of a jeep grand cherokee and I don’t have the head space. I asked about laying it down or putting it on an angle and was told it would not be good for the life of my resin.

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Then I would go two of the WCR half cubic foot tanks in line. Still more resin for less money than the Unger. Alex @ WCR told me that the Unger resin bags are only about 1/3 qf each.

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Half cube tanks are much easier to handle than full cube tanks.

Ya I rock two half cubes , an I have a van. Like Mike says much easier to handle when ya have to change the resin. I’m going to be getting another half cube for a spare , so it’s just swap , an change when I get around to it .

They also have a nice spot for the winter :slight_smile:

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Thanks for all the help guys, guess I got some thinkin to do.

My ideal set-up is either 1/4 cu ft, or 1/2 cu ft for ease of handling - filling and refilling.

Rig them up in series - and have a TDS METER reading IN and OUT of your last tank in line. It is, in effect, your RESERVE tank.

Check daily if your main tanks are fine - this is the IN reading - when the TDS creeps, you can schedule your refill knowing that you are now running on your ‘reserve’ tank.

If your OUT reading is high, your full system has failed.

When you refill, take your reserve tank to the #1 position, and use a fresh tank for your reserve.

This way. You can still work a week on reserve in peak season (TDS varies this).

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Perry , what reading are you looking for on that first tds meter- before you start thinking it’s time to swap ?

Also what tds meter do you recommend for this type of set up ?

Thanks Perry!

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Mike: I swap the reserve tank when my TDS starts to creep above zero.

Mike , your measuring your tds out of the # 2 tank only ?
The #2 tank would be your polishing tank the outlet yes ?

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If I was working out if what you have …
A good way to go is with a half cube like we have mentioned two would be better , but not necessary depending on your tds .
I would get two lengths of Xhose, I would also get a reel like this for your water fed hose

Yes the Xhose prob won’t last … But if you buy it from a place like bed bath n beyond save the reciet when it breaks bring it back for an exchange.

If you can fit better source hose that would be even better rolling it up without a reel wi get old fast though

This is just an idea …: do with it as you may ignore if you like :slight_smile:

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