I’m looking at different poles and DI systems and I’m having a really hard time deciding which is the best to buy. There are many options out there but it seems like good advise on which to buy is not easy to find. Sales reps just want you to buy their systems but nobody really puts it out clear as to what system is best for different applications. Is there anyone out there that is willing to give advise on one of these systems? How does it work for you? What do you like or dislike about it? I really need help figuring this out!
Welcome to Water Fed Window Cleaning!
We built this website for this exact purpose - Understanding Pure Water & Water Fed Poles | WCR – WindowCleaner.com
It’s a work in progress, like everything, but right now it allows you to define your business and then recommends a TYPE of pole – and we explain WHY - then, of course. we refer you to the best match from the poles we manufacture (available at WCR STORE)… But, the same as with our other resources you can use them and buy another brand - there’s plenty to go round!
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From a Pure Water perspective, I agree with Alex - pure water is pure water - it’s function is to rinse the dirty water off the glass after you clean it with the brush to leave a spot-free finish.
In the maths, you can work twice as fast on 2 storey and higher using water fed window cleaning. This means you are at least $30 per hour ahead - and anything up to $100 an hour ahead!
The running cost per hour of DI ONLY, can be estimated by dividing your local TDS by 100 so :
TDS/100 = HOURLY RUNNING COST
If your TDS is very high. Over 350, that’s still $3.50 per hour - but at 30 hours a week, it would add up to $100 per week and feel expensive!
Assumptions : you buy DI RESIN from WCR at $200 per cu ft and maintain a flow rate of less than 1/2gpm. If you buy a proprietary DI System like Unger bags, or RHG Cartridges, you will pay 3-4 times higher.
RO systems are 20 times lower running cost (assuming you do not buy proprietary DI and Carbon filters, eg IPC Hydrotube, RHG Systems).
You will save the most money buying units that take loose DI RESIN to refill and standard Carbon filters (eg IPC Hydrocart and Wash-iT PRO) because these systems are not seeking to charge you for packing, and nor are they trying to lock you into their brand/model (basically the ink cartridge business model).
Once you have a DI TANK, You can quickly determine the viability of RO - especially taking into consideration how many weeks a year is your window cleaning season.
And, you will never regret having a DI TANK - EVER!
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True dat!
IMO, if you only need di then tanks are the way to go but if you need an RO system then I strongly suggest the Wash-It Pro. Great system and I can’t praise it enough and we have put ours through the ringer. Rough use and tds reaching 650 + but it still producing pure water at a great rate.
when it comes to poles that’s more of a personal preference. Depends of your type work, budget and over all feel of the pole.
So I did the questionnaire and as expected, it recommends the Reach It 4. I would love to buy one, but have a hard time saving even that amount right now. So that’s for eventually this summer. My question deals more with how you get the water. I assume most setups you hook the hose up to a spout and the water flows that way? I have a route of commercial locations that have no water setup. Is there a pump or backpack setup that I’d need to look at? (I have little to no experience with even the most basic of WFP setups)
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I would recommend that you look at MINI2, in that case - because you can add XT’S incrementally through the season - you cap out at 50ft reach - if you have 2 jobs at that height, affording a PRO4 will be believable AND you will, in fact have a PRO6!!!
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My question would be, is WFP even the best option for those route locations? Do they have a lot of true-divides (french panes)? Are there difficult access issues that can’t be overcome with some good wagtail technique? An on-board tank system is great to have, and the same goes for having a backpack with some jerry cans. But it’s not usually necessary starting out. You’ll also discover that traditional methods will definitely be more efficient in certain scenarios, especially route work.
That said, I have several route stops with a lot of true-divides, and having an on-board tank allows me to bang out those stops super fast. $30-$40 stops take me from 15-20 minutes from the point I pull up to the job, to the point that I’m driving away. If you encounter those types of situations, looking into having a tank or backpack setup may make sense. But the tank really comes into its own for residential work.
For most people starting out with wfp, it will be using the customer’s water supply, with either a simple DI tank or an RO/DI system like the Wash-iT.
If the system recommended PRO4, that is 1,2,3 and 4 storey commercial with the potential to go higher…
I would find it really unusual for commercial buildings to not have external water supply… Or in the loading dock - there are too many other uses for Water to not have it available…
Crawl before you Walk before you Run, otherwise you might find yourself chasing $5000 plus for the most sophisticated solution.
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I think WCR still finances wfps.
Sent from my Panasonic VCR. Please set the clock before responding.
Unfortunately, financing is not in the cards for me. Alex, if I compile a picture collection of my route work the next few weeks, could I email them to you to get your honest opinion?
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So if I start with a MINI2, I can add 2 extra sections later on, or more?
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Yes Sir!
You can add 11ft at any time, twice, so add 22ft as you win the word…
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Sure, or you can post them here and get everyone’s input. Whatever you’re comfortable with. [email protected]
Search on here for a WFP backpack idea, you can build your own and carry pure water to your route locations of necessary.
If you’re doing residential work I would suggest a DI tank, 150-200’ of hose, a 25’ pole and a couple different brushes.
I’m starting a backpack build next week, I have 3 stops that have awful fake panes on the exterior and I hate doing them by hand from a ladder.
feel free to PM anytime
Mike Radzik
Pro Window Cleaning
Central Massachusetts
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I have the 4 stage ettore with gardiner pole, love the gardiner poles. However its all about your need, and how hard your water it. Will you be using a tank in the van?
I tested my water at home and it came back 77 TDS.
That’s very low, if all your jobs have 77ppm your resin will last quite awhile.
Personally, I don’t think I’ll use more than a DI tank for my pure water cleaning. I only use it on residential work so hook it up to water is never an issue for me.
The only improvement I want to make is upgrading to a quality pole, I smell a Reach-It mini in my near future
Mike Radzik
Pro Window Cleaning
Central Massachusetts
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I am very much in favour of DI ONLY - especially with two tanks in series or even 2 in parallel into one in series - basically, you measure the TDS of the first-in-line, when it fails, you have a full tank capacity to schedule a DI change.
At the change, last filter becomes first filter.
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My first time out with the system and it went well. The TDS at the location was in the 150 range. I’m pleased.
