What do you folks recommend as a safety standpoint with cleaning this window? I have only aluminum ladders at this point, are the power lines to close to the window to clean? I would like to avoid being a electro cooked chicken satay.
Thanks
Working around power lines is a daily occurence. Whether window washing, or gutter cleaning you are bound to work around them. Whenever I have to get real close to power lines, I go into a sharp mental focus mode. Literally focusing all of my energy and being continually aware of how close I am. Take your time, be patient, and very aware of your surroundings.
I don’t know really. I would do it from the inside to be safe.
how about one our intrepid wc suppliers developing a rubber pole sheath similar to those on the shaft of an insulated screwdriver? should be a fairly simple design and implementation process, and it would make that window at least cleanable, which right now it’s not. not safely, anyway.
The Dish Network guy did his installation, the downspouts were installed, and the wife has a flower hanger… all around this wire.
But if you prefer to do it from the inside, it looks like that should be no problem as well.
Do what makes you feel most comfortable… 
Im not too concerned unless it is a rainy or foggy day. Electricity has more of a likelyhood of jumping over to your ladder when these conditions are present. I decided to look this up since I have just a little basic knowledge. [B]LOTS OF GOOD INFO BELOW:[/B]
[B]Info-Facts & Myths[/B]
Here are some important facts about electricity.
Basic Facts about electricity you should know ….
[B]Electricity seeks the easiest and shortest path to the ground[/B] – when people or objects come too close to, or touch and electrical wire, they can become a part of an electrical circuit which can result in an instant flow of electricity through them to ground.
The flow of electricity through the human body can kill – less than one ampere of electricity can burn, severely injure or cause death.Electricity is fast – electricity travels at approximately 299,330 km per second. That leaves no room for mistakes – never put yourself into electricity’s path.
“conductors” conduct electricity readily and in large amounts – all metals, waters, humans and even non-metallic materials (trees, ropes etc.) can conduct electricity depending on moisture content and surface contamination – caution needs to be applied.
[B]Birds land on wires, so they must be safe to touch.[/B]
Birds don’t get electrocuted when they land on wires because they don’t represent a path to ground. Electricity wants nothing more than to go to ground and will always do so by the easiest most direct route. A bird on a wire doesn’t give electricity anywhere to go but back to the wire – easier for the current to stay right where it is in the wire and continue on its way.
[B]Power lines are insulated, so they’re safe to touch.[/B]
Not so fast. Many overhead power lines are insulated only to a level to prevent problems from incidental tree contact. They are usually not fully insulated to prevent injury to people.
[B]As long as my ladder isn’t metal, it’s safe to rest on the power line.[/B]
Electricity wants a conductor. Metal is an excellent conductor and so metal ladders are a natural hazard around overhead power lines. But so is water. No matter what the ladder is made of, if it’s wet or can get wet, it represents a potential hazard – and most ladders contain metal parts as well. Be safe – keep all ladders away from overhead power lines.
[I][B][I]As long as my ladder isn’t touching the line, I’m safe.[/I][/B][/I]
Maybe. Depends on how far away your ladder and you are from the line. Electricity can jump and often does when a potential conductor like a metal ladder comes within a certain proximity. Be safe, and keep well away – at least ten feet – from overhead power lines.
[B]I’m just trimming my tree limbs; in fact, to keep them clear of the power lines. I won’t be using a ladder so I don’t need to worry.[/B]Actually, there’s plenty to worry about. Remember, electricity doesn’t need metal. The moisture in the tree and in you will do nicely, thank you. Move a limb enough to come into contact with the line, and electricity now has a direct path to ground through the tree, your pruning tool, and you! Better call the utility company, or your local department of transportation if the limbs are over a roadway, for their assistance with the job.
[B]I’m just digging a couple inches into the ground. I really don’t need to worry about the lines. [/B]How long ago were those lines laid? How has the ground shifted in that time? Is it possible you might accidentally push your shovel deeper than you intended? Err on the side of caution – make the call.
[B]The lines are marked; my job is near but not on top of the lines. I’m safe to dig away. [/B]The ground maps are approximate and the person doing the marking may not be exact. Once the lines are marked, do any digging that comes within 24 inches of either side of the markers, with care and by hand. Buried lines are insulated and won’t be dangers to touch, but can be damaged and become dangerous by the blade of a shovel or any sharp object.
[B]What is that mysterious big green metal box behind the hedge on the corner?[/B]It may be electrical equipment installed there by the utility company to help deliver electricity to your home from the high voltage lines near your neighbourhood. They should be marked with yellow labels as an electrical hazard and children should be taught to leave them alone.
[B]If the utility company put it there in the middle of a residential neighbourhood, it must be safe.[/B]Yes, they are generally safe. However, if the equipment or its casing has been damaged due to vandals, careless landscapers or other causes, a potential hazard may exist. Children should be taught not to enter the equipment or investigate and to tell an adult right away so the utility company can be notified immediately.
[B]I’m afraid to go near it or touch it, particularly with anything metal. [/B]The current-carrying parts of pad-mounted equipment are securely locked inside the cabinet and pose no hazard to the public. Infrequently, however, vandalism or other occurrences may cause the access door to be ajar. In this case, avoid touching any part of the equipment and notify the utility company immediately.
How would a young child know to stay away?
The enclosures should have pictorial warning labels clearly visible that have been designed and tested to communicate a sense of danger to children even too young to read.
Never climb Electrical Utility poles or towers.
Limits of Approach out of OHSA - March, 01, 2006
[B]Look Down![/B]
There may be power down below too!
Underground power equipment – out of sight, out of mind …. But don’t forget that in newer subdivisions electrical wires and facilities are underground. If you plan to dig deeper than 30 cm (approximately 1 foot) call your Local Distribution Company to locate underground power lines.
Stay away from pad mount transformers – these are the green metal boxes that contain the above ground portion of an underground electrical installation. These transform high voltage electricity to low voltage electricity which is then carried in insulated underground power lines to your home. The public should stay away from these boxes. If you see a pad mount transformer that looks damaged or appears to have been tampered with please notify your Local Distribution Company.
Never touch a downed wire – keep 10 meters away from fallen wires and call your Local Distribution Company to notify them of any downed lines.
As with anything you do, safety should be at the fore front of your mind. If it was me I would put my ladder off to the side opposite the power lines and do the window from the side to keep away from the power lines. The best approach would be to do them from the inside, looks like it would be pretty easy to do.
It seems like the advice given was with respect to Steven doing the work.
Would recommendations differ when considering that an employee may provide service? What does an employer owe an employee in regard to safety and following OSHA (and other) regulations?
I’d do it from inside as well. Better safe than sorry.
could also rent a fiberglass ladder for about 30 a day if you for some reason can’t do it from the inside.
If they don’t flip down, its nearly impossible to clean the outside of the bottom sash from the inside.
Unless someone has a awesome technique they want to share!?
Windows are original wood frames from the 1930’s, I would be performing the cleaning myself.
As long as both sashes move we shuffle these types when power lines or other obstructions get in the way of other techniques. First raise the bottom sash and reach out to clean the top sash then we push the top sash all the way down and then pull up the bottom sash high enough to reach over the top and clean the top half. We then slide the top sash back to the top of the frame and clean the bottom half of the bottom sash.
With this style of window you can do the bottom sash from the inside because the protruding mutton bars keep the top panes of glass in the bottom sill far enough away from the bottom fram of the top sash to fit your sqeegee bhind the top sah with the window open. I think there is a viseo on the internet of a guy doing this in portland oregon. He did all the top floor windows from the inside like this. It does not work with most newer windows though. So your best bet is to do the window from the inside since it can be done that way.
Those windows come out… the tension is from the side, not the top.
(but same principle.)
This is how we do it also, except we push the top sash all the way down to do the outside of it from above. You don’t have to lean out of the window backwards, although you do need to use a step stool to do it this way.
Got it! I would really only ever use that procedure in an instance like this. That would take much longer.
Absolutely. I use it only when necessary. Plus I never have to lean out of the window. I just reach over or up. I also use a microfiber towel and SprayWay cleaner. It’s easier than trying to squeegee at those angles.
I am hoping there will not be an issue with it being painted shut, it may just end up not being done if there are to many issues.
Didnt read all the suggestions, (and theres alot of them), so heres mine:
- That powerline is far enough away that you could ladder up to the right side of that window and just reach to the left to clean the glass. Maybe a short pole?
- Clean the top pane from the inside, then ladder up to the bottom right and clean the bottom window. Seems to be the most efficient and [B]safe[/B] way.
Assumption #1= the window is not double hung or if it is, it won’t move.
Assumption #2= there’s no freakin way your getting up there to ladder it.
Assumption #3= When you lean out of the window to do the bottom sash, your squeegee(with handle) doesn’t fit in between the frames and/or doesn’t do an acceptable job.
then… bust out the putty knife. when that bottom sash is lowered all the way to your knees, you can wet rag/dry rag it with a putty knife and/or a squeegee channel. Of course, you are going to have to manage customer expectations with that one window(raggin it)
Personally, I would just do it w/ a ladder. Lean over with a stabilizer at the top of the ladder. Is it risky? Sure. It is also risky to lean out the freaking window.
